PLAYBOY.COM: Drink of the Week
by James Oliver Cury
Playboy.com
Monday, August 14, 2006
The Taste
Obscene. Unconventional. Harsh. These words characterized Lenny Bruce, the vitriolic comic-social critic, but they also apply to a new beer created in his honor. Yes, the brassy brewers from Shmaltz's HE'BREW are at it again.
This time, they've crafted a double India Pale Ale that's, well, fucking delicious.
Bittersweet Lenny's R.I.P.A commemorates the 40th anniversary of Bruce's death - August 3, 1966 - and Shmaltz's 10th anniversary. It's basically a rye-based ale made with what the label deems "an obscene amount of malts and hops," "with shocking flavors," "far beyond contemporary community standards." Yeah, we get the point, give us the damn beer.
At 10 percent alcohol, the reddish-brown R.I.P.A. is about twice as strong as most beers. The massively strong, sweet hoppy nose - with pineapple scents - suggests this is a whopper of a brew. At first sip, it's thick and heavily carbonated, but that taste is blown away by a hoppy, darn near overwhelming bitterness. It is, no doubt, too much for some people. Just like Mr. Bruce.