The Beer Nut: Oy vey, great beer
by Norman Miller
Staff Writer
MetroWest Daily News
Wednesday, August 9, 2006
The labels are eye-catching. It's not often you see a beer bottle adorned with a comical rabbi figure on the label, or one dedicated to a long-dead, edgy comic.
HE'BREW, a New York-based brewery, even bills itself as "The Chosen Beer."
Although the labels will make you chuckle, Schmaltz Brewing Co. owner Jeremy Cowan wants beer drinkers to know his brews are not jokes.
HE'BREW is celebrating it's 10th anniversary, releasing two 10 percent alcohol beers this year - the Genesis 10:10, and the Bittersweet Lenny's R.I.P.A.
"They're pretty outrageous beers," said Cowan, who says, in addition to owning HE'BREW, he is the "head punchline creator."
"I'm pretty excited about it."
I was too, particularly for the Lenny's R.I.P.A., a rye-based double India pale ale, named for Lenny Bruce, who died 40 years ago at the age of 40. I have a strong affinity for double, or imperial, IPAs.
Often bitter to the extreme, high in alcohol content and pricey, I always look for imperials I haven't tried.
"The world is a very serious place," said Cowan, who does not brew the beer himself. "I wanted to celebrate (Bruce) on the anniversary of his death. We started brewing with rye last year. It was so delicious, I figured, 'What an excuse to keep going, to honor Lenny.'"
Lenny's didn't disappoint. It was hoppy, which makes sense since it's brewed with seven different hops. There is a fruity, rye smell, and the rye works well with the bitter hops.
The name fits well because there is a definite bittersweet but still pleasant taste. Although high in alcohol, it does not take away from the taste.
And the label is worth reading as well. It features information about the beer and why it's the perfect beer to represent Lenny Bruce.
"Sick, dirty, prophetic Lenny: a scapegoat, a martyr, a supreme inspiration," the label reads.
The Genesis 10:10 ale, HE'BREW's 10th anniversary ale, is also different from many beers on the market - it's brewed with pomegranate juice.
"I love this beer," said Cowan. "That beer has been really well-received. I wanted to make it a way to draw together the Jewish schitck. Pomegranate has a wonderful history with the Jewish culture."
The Genesis 10:10 is the kind of fruit beer I like: you can taste a hint of the fruit - in this case pomegranate - but it does not take away from the fact you're drinking a beer. It's also more bitter than a typical fruit beer. The alcohol taste is more present in the Genesis than in the R.I.P.A.
Cowan, calling on his cell phone on the way to Baltimore and then Washington D.C., is trying to spread the HE'BREW brand around the country.
So far, HE'BREW is available in about 25 states. Schmaltz Brewery puts out about 2,000 barrels a year, and has recently started distributing six packs.
The two beers tasted here were 22-ounce bottles, costing $5.90 apiece at the Malt Shop in Ashland. HE'BREW is also available at Fifth Avenue Liquors in Framingham and Marty's Liquors in Newton.
"It's going better than ever," said Cowan. "We've been around for 10 years and in the beer business there's a lot of products that come and go."
HE'BREW's first offering was the Genesis ale, which he brewed in San Francisco in 1996. He said he meant it as a Jewish celebration beer "that anyone could enjoy."
Although marketed with an obvious "Jewish schtick," Cowan said people are rarely disappointed when they take his beer home.
"They'll pick it up because it's funny and they'll take it home and realize I'm really serious about making good, quality beer," Cowan said.
Cowan knows his beer is not for everyone. He classifies his two new brews as "extreme," but said adventurous drinkers will enjoy them.
"If you have a sense of humor, you'll like it," said Cowan. "I'm not trying to appeal to everybody. I'm trying to appeal to people who like a quality beer and like a good schtick."
On his two latest offerings, Cowan succeeded on both fronts.